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Showing posts with label Chinese New Year. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chinese New Year. Show all posts

Thursday, February 9, 2017

Fish-O-Gram! Pink Scallop Breakthrough!!!! Chinese New Year--Rooster Time!! 2017, Year of the Halibut!!!

Fish-O-Gram! Pink Scallop Breakthrough!!!! Chinese New Year--Rooster Time!! 2017, Year of the Halibut!!!

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Dear Snow-Bound, but Still Pinkly Amorous Customers,
Pink Apotheosis!!!!!!
After seven years of struggle, Thousands of hours of our time, time of dive master Joe Stephens, intercession from State reps Doug Erickson, Kristine Lytton, Brady Blake and many more, our Pink Scallop fishery is a go. Yes, we have announced with before.  You'll remember a year ago we officially got the fishery off the ground, but last year's opening was flawed and challenged) We are overwhelmed, overjoyed........  Thanks to everyone who participated. Chefs, partners, divers, politicians, etc.....


Party like it's The Year of the Rooster

This time they gave us an area with scallops in it. Spindle Rock.  The Peapods, Pt Carter.  Names dear to our hearts.   The restricted designation is actually positive--it means we can harvest and hold the product in our Shoal Bay water for two weeks prior to sale.


This would make a nice placemat

Pinks Forever!!!
Pink scallops were once and pink scallops will again, become one of the quintessential seafoods of our region.  Attractive, delicious, rare and spunky, Pinks are maybe the ultimate San Juans seafood product.  WA State estimates place the population in the tens of millions of pounds.  Pinks are found in limited numbers from Southern California to the Gulf of Alaska, but they exist in harvest-able numbers only in the constricted waterways of the San Juans and Canadian Gulf Islands.  Scallops need high water-flows to live in any real numbers.  They also only congregate on south-facing rocks and ledges, clinging to rock and each other at times of high tidal flows then detaching to flit around at slack water.  They have a unique backwards swimming pattern, wherein they can actually create a jet-like action with the flexible mantle and fire compressed water out the back of their shells.  Our tribal dive friends call them "Angel Scallops", others dub them Butterfly Scallops, but Singing Scallops is the name that has stuck. We like Pink because it rhymes with Think.  Think Pink.  Get it?

Pinks are short lived and fast growing, making them a perfect commercial species.  Populations seems to follow a boom-and-bust pattern, as broadcast spawners they are able to reproduce in huge numbers when conditions are ripe.  Harvesting, handling and distributing them is very challenging; best abundances are found at depths of 90+ feet in high-flow areas, making for brief, technically difficult dives.  Scallops pick up PSP, or red tide, in anomalous patterns--the state DOH has excellent data on red tide in clams and oysters going back to the second world war.  It has been decades since any commercially harvested shellfish had any PSP related illnesses.  Scallops feed on dormant, or cystic, phytoplankton, so they are liable to pick up toxin any time, any place, and each batch must be tested before sale.  Singers also have a very brief shelf-life, so losing a day and a half to testing is a big problem for distributing and serving them.  Like all commercial shellfish in Washington they must be held in certified water, of which there is precious little in the San Juans.  Every days' harvest is returned to our shellfish farm and held in live-tanks until our PSP tests come back clean.  Our scallops' freshness clock doesn't start ticking until we pull them on our end.  Scallops received in Seattle on a given day have been out of the water 5-6 hours.

Years back a robust fishery targeted the scallops and Seattle restaurants from the Dahlia Lounge to Le Gourmand featured them and select fishmongers offered them to a hungry public.  The fishery tapered off in the late 90's, beginning with the retirement of Jim Ranson, the pioneer scallop diver, low seafood prices and ever-mounting regulations.  On a tip from food writer Sara Dickerman, we commenced, seven long years ago to bring singing scallops back to market.  Unbeknownst to us, just a few miles across the water in Ferndale, Joe Stephens was making the same efforts.  Two years ago we joined forces with Joe.  He is now our dive-master and full partner in this venture.  Last year we had a short-lived fishery, but between inflexible regulations, flaky divers, boat troubles, PSP and having been given an area with no scallops, we didn't get very far.  Now, 9, long, bureaucracy-alligator-wrestling months later, we are back in the PINK!  This year our Divers report that populations are at or near their peak in living memory.


Enjoy Yourselves, While We're Still in the Pink.
We are still subject to limitations of flaky divers, boat problems and PSP.  Singing Scallops are one of the most challenging foods on the planet to bring to plate, harvesting and handling scallops make truffle hunting look like potato digging, goose-barnacle collecting look like picking strawberries and handling and shipping wild mushrooms look like shipping bales of cotton.  This fishery is and will remain a tiny volume, sporadic, ultra-specialty product.  For the moment we are the only operator in the business.  It is our great pride and delight to bring them to our family of friends and customers.   We aim to direct these scallops to markets that will showcase them as the Northwest treasure they are.  Look for a string of Pink-Themed restaurant events to come.  Call Paisley to schedule your own!! Bringing Pinks back is the result of dozens of people working for seven years to bring this to pass, including many of our customers and we thank everyone.  We expect good abundance through Mid-May, after which we trend into PSP season, but again, what with flaky divers, boat problems and dormant PSP-bearing dynoflagulates, we never know.


Sunday Dinner at Jones Ranch.

Winter Update From JFF.


Snow Day on Lopez

This winter past has been a tale of limited fishes, heavy weather and immature shellfish--not the stuff of inspired prose.  Here at Jones Ranch we have embarked on a pork-intensive diet until the fishes return, entertained ourselves by cutting firewood, playing scrabble, reading vintage science fiction, tormenting the cats and scheming on a fun & fantastic new year.
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/2c/ce/2c/2cce2ce85205231a97cecfa8ed818cc0.jpg

JFF sells Firewood too.

Sinology Corner.
Chinese New Year is upon us as well.  January 27th marked New Years' eve.  Festivities begin a week before that and conclude on the 11th of February.   This New Year is the year of the Rooster, a year of braggadocio, opportunity and abundant fertility.  Joint ventures are at premium, as is strategy over force.  In the words of the immortal Sun Tsu. the theme of the year is, “achieve psychological advantage over the adversary and use force only as a last resort."  We here at Jones Ranch have sworn off further reproduction for this generation and our cats are fixed, so we will let the livestock and sea creatures multiply while we focus on joint ventures and psyching out the opposition. 
We make an ongoing study of the Chinese market and it's ongoing and unpredictable impacts of seafood pricing.  Eating fish on or around the New Year signifies increasing wealth in the year ahead, subject to the following rules according to the website, China Highlights
  • The head should be placed toward distinguished guests or elders, representing respect.
  • Diners can enjoy the fish only after the one who faces the fish head eats first.
  • The fish shouldn't be moved. The two people who face the head and tail of fish should drink together, as this is considered to have a lucky meaning
This year has been another strange one in market terms--geoducks up, crab down.  Duck folk are enjoying the highest pricing in four years so expect a flurry of money spent in the tattoo parlors and flesh-pots of Shelton and Brinnon.  Painted Ladies of Mason County; Saddle Up!, Happy Times is Here Again!.  Farmed ducks have hit @$28# on the water, up $10# in the last four months.  Consider what this means for the larger players in the business; a handful of companies are harvesting a million+#/yr of ducks.  Recent events are putting an extra $10 million dollars and more into those already distended pockets.  We mention no names, but you can fill in the blanks. 
Crab pricing, by contrast,  has remained strangely soft and strangely flat throughout.  Coastal catches have been very strong, with 20+ million pounds caught between state and tribal fleets.  Puget Sound is still tracking for an all-time record catch of 12 million+ pounds for the season.  California and Oregon and rolling strong, with a combined 20+ million between the two, to date.  Still, 50 million pounds, or 25 million individual crab are but a drop in the food flow for 1.3 billion consumers.  To the degree that we any of us here on the West Coast enjoy our local seafoods, it is at the sufferance of the Chinese market.  The Chinese market has grown from next to nothing prior to 2009 to being the primary driver in Dungeness pricing.  We Coasters are outnumbered, out moneyed and out maneuvered for crab, prawns, shellfish, cukes and more.  They send us tilapia and processed calamari and we send them the good stuff.  But, on the positive side,  these past 10 years the Chinese nation has transferred billions of dollars to our coastal communities and tribes.  This is glory of a globalized market, product flows to those willing and able to pay.  And if Americans are happy to ship our best product overseas and eat Thai Tiger Prawns and Turkish Branzini, well, more power to us....
But something odd is afoot in China.  Duck prices are through the roof, while crab pricing remains low and stable.  Other fish prices are level at best.  West Coast crab fishers went so far as to strike this last January over a quarter per pound pricing dispute.  It will still be a solid year for crabbers, but the boom and bloom is off, at least for the moment.  We here at F.O.G. headquarters are confused, but to paraphrase a fish broker of our acquaintance, if we could predict swings in international trade and currency values, we wouldn't be selling frozen pork for a living.  As ever, Puget Sound crab is the premiere crab throughout the Sino-Sphere, from Taipei to  Hohhot, Puget Sound crab is golden.  So we are focusing on drinking with those who face the fish, and letting the market take care of itself.  Suffice it to say we have lots of beautiful crab, at a very fair price, for those who dare to dream.  As for ducks, well, we can get them, but at a mighty price.... and to all and any, Happy Year of the Rooster.  Ducks Up!!!!


http://cdn2.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/styles/980x551/public/2015/03/10/geoduckclam.jpg?itok=EI4YyWT0

Show Me The Money

Halibut Hustings.
Our friends at the International Pacific Halibut Commission released 2017 halibut seasons and catch limits on the 27th of last month.  Fishing for our favorite flatfish will kick off March 11 and run 'till November 7th.  Coastwide halibut quotas are up 5% to 31.4 million pounds, reflecting a growing biomass, but best of all our local quota is up a full 190,000# to 1,330,000#.  As with all things on sea or land, halibut are subject to large swings in abundance.  2017 marks the third successive year of biomass and quota increases.  If past patterns hold, we can look forward to up to ten years of further increases.


Lummi Love.
Alaska, BC and Coastal Halibut are all well and good, but our joy is the inside-caught fish.  Our San Juans halibut feed on spot prawns, pink scallops and have a quality and flavor all their own and vastly superior to your garden-variety halibut.  Larger Quotas for our tribal friends mean more fish for you.  These past years we have made a tradition of circumnavigating San Juan County on the first day of halibut season.  We visit with the fishermen, distribute healthy snacks to our favorites and deliver bait and fuel (and occasionally boots if forgotten at home) as needed.  This marks for us the kickoff of our local, fresh fish season.  Any and all are invited to join us.  Dress warm, RSVP and BYOB. 
http://www.grindtv.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/erik-axner-may-5-fb-.jpg 

March 11.  Mark the date

Local Orbit 2-U!
Look for the roll-out of our new on-line ordering program in the next week or so.  This will allow you to place orders and get real-time feedback on availability, quantities and delivery days.  The aim is to streamline our process, tighten up information flows and provide late-night ordering options without getting Paisley out of bed.

Until next time, we are your Pink-Procuring, PSP Testing, Firewood Cutting, Rooster Crowing, Crab Bargaining, Halibut Lusting, Local Orbiting JFF Crew. 

For customer service please reply to this email or call 360.468.0533

Saturday, January 30, 2016

Fish-O-Gram! Halibut Season Set! Weatherbound Scallops! Harbingers of Spring! Carcasses Hit the Street! Year of the Monkey Dawns! New Reps System at Jones Ranch

Dear Weather Stymied, Nettle Eating, but still Pink-Hued Customers,

http://www.queenannehealingarts.com/qahq/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Nettles@Queenannemassage.com_1.jpg

A long, tempestuous week blew our diver friends off the water. It was a disappointing start to the Pink Scallop season--so sad.  But the winds have died down and we are looking at Sunday for sample collections and Tuesday for a commencement of commercial harvest.
Scallops live at such depths that harvest diving is dicey and challenging, as with any wild fishery, we are endlessly subject to vagaries of the weather.  As reflected last week, developing this fishery will take a great deal of time and experimentation.  Please bear with us as we work to Bring Back the Pinks!

Department of Fisheries Management
Yesterday the International Pacific Halibut Commission wrapped up their annual meeting in Anchorage.  For those with the inclination to dig a little deeper, there are some fascinating statistics on Halibut sizing over time on their website http://www.iphc.int/news-releases.html.
But more to the point, the 2016 kick-off to the halibut season has been announced for March 19 and the quota for our region has been raised by 20%.  This means that our local flatfish are thriving and stocks are growing, and it means more availability for you of the San Juans Halibut, the greatest halibut in the world!

This tribal-only fishery kicks off on halibut opening day, March 19th and our plucky Lummi, Swinomish, Tulalip and Jamestown friends will convert their crab skiffs to longliners for two, three or on a good year, four openings to pursue these massive flatfish.  San Juans Halibut have shorter muscle fibers than the Alaska variant, higher fat levels and a more subtle, richer and rounder flavor.  They are simply the best.  And, the past few years, these early fish have been the most reasonably priced of the season. 

http://www.mass.gov/eea/images/dfg/dmf/recreationalfishing/nyc-mayor-fiorello-laguardia-with-halibut-350.jpg
March 19.  Be ready

Winter's Almost Gone
Last night at Jones Ranch, we had our first round of Nettle pesto and nettle tea.  The grass is growing, buds are swelling and calves are on the ground.  We are on the home-stretch!
And fresh fish is beginning to loosen up as well. Rhode Island production looks good for the week ahead and we have a reasonable basket of fresh locals as well.
We still have green urchins available, crab pricing is still reasonable, and as of Monday we will have...

 #1 60 up TUNA

#2 TUNA


ALBACORE 


SWORD

MAHI


1-2 TAI SNAPPERS

GROPER


BRANZINI

ONO 

OPAH

BLUE MARLIN 


ESCOLAR 

8+ CALIFORNIA HALIBUT

FRESH FISH-DOMESTICS



TRUE COD  FILLET 

LING COD 


DOVER FILLET

ROCK FILLETS

PETRALE FILLETS
















FARMED STURGEON 


STEELHEAD, U9, G&


STEELHEAD, 9+, G&G




FRESH  &  LIVE  SEAFOOD   ***ALL  LIVE  SEAFOOD  WEATHER  DEPENDENT**
LIVE  DUNGENESS  CRAB  
LIVE  DUNGENESS  CRAB  
GREEN  SEA  URCHIN 
SEA  CUCUMBER SALISH  SEA FRESH  SQUID



Fresh Eastern Fish--Look For Monday Update

Valentines Day Warning
On and around Sunday, February 14, your business will be thronged with famished, amorous customers.   Suppliers nation-wide will run short of choice items.  We are digging deep to cover you with the premium proteins Lusty Diners demand.  Special Fishes!! Fresh Meats!! The Best Distributor list of Small-Farm Oysters in the business! Abundant Pink Dye--We've got you covered!! Don't get caught short!! Call today to set up a Valentines Program.  Help us help you!

Department of Land-Based Activities.

Feeding time at Jones Ranch

Hog Call
We slaughtered cattle last week--call now for availability week of Feb. 8- call Sara.
Hogs go this week--available as wholes, halves and in cuts as early as Thurs or for the week of the 8th.  We anticipate at least several months of weekly fresh pork availability. 

Call for ordering details!  Our pastured Lopez Pork is the best anywhere.
Lambs continue to go meekly to the slaughter, week by week and are showing no signs of rebellion.  Get yours today!

Non-Gregorian Calendar Corner

Chinese New Year is celebrated at the turn of the traditional lunisolar Chinese calendar. Festivities start the night before the New Year and extend for fifteen full days of the New Year.  The first day of the New Year is held on the new moon between 21 January and 20 February.  This year Chinese New Year will be held on Monday, February 8.  Each night has a different feasting tradition involving specific dishes, but many oriented around seafood.  The New Year eve dinner is known as Reunion Dinner and is generally seafood heavy.  This is so because seafood is delicious, and also because  the pronunciation of fish (魚yú) makes it a homophone for "surpluses"(餘yú).  So, in the interest of a prosperous New Year, eat fish every night, but specifically on the 7th.  Sadly, the 13th night of festivities calls for an all-vegetarian menu. 

The year beginning Feb 8 will be year 2130, and is the Year of the Monkey in Chinese Astrology.

http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/02807/chinese-new-year-5_2807135k.jpg 
More Crab! More Geoduck!

In 1928, the ruling Kuomintang  under Chiang Kai Shek mandated a Gregorian New Year of Jan 1, but the population refused to accept the change.  In 1967 during the Cultural revolution, Chinese New Year celebrations were banned for 13 years in an effort to extract more labor out of the population.  The return of traditional celebrations has been a powerful symbol of the unwinding of high-totalitarian laws in China.   

These last years Chinese New Year has typically marked the annual peak of prices of Geoduck, Dungeness Crab, Lobster, Shrimp and many fishes.  Jumbo Jets laden with Washington origin crab line the runways in Vancouver and  Shanghai.  Fishermen and brokers world-wide plan trips to Reno based on Chinese New Year winnings.  This year, prices have barely budged as we approach the date.  Why?

Changing Times
Many past Fish-O-Grams have discussed the changing nature of Chinese purchases of West-Coast seafood and what it means for all of us.  Simply put, China became the major driver in global seafood demand and pricing during the early years of the 2000s.  In China, imported food in general, and seafood in particular, became a mark of upper and middle class distinction.  Also, for good reason, Chinese consumers increasingly distrust their own food supply.  For a long decade Chinese demand and pricing ratcheted up every year.  This made business easy for brokers on our side of the pond and the persistent lesson learned was, "he who has the product wins", even if product was purchased above market levels, China would always pick up the slack and make long bets good.  Fishermen saw the value of their catch rise yearly, brokers splurged on Cadillac Escalades, gold plated e-cigarettes and Rolex watches, and everyone was happy.  This dynamic was also alive and well in other resource businesses, including oil, grain and metals.  Conventional wisdom held that this perpetual increase was not a bubble, but represented the new normal as the massive Chinese population moved into the global trading gyre.

In 2013 a coast-wide, all-time record salmon catch was met with higher pricing--an unprecedented combination--and supply seamlessly melted away into the marketplace.   

Many of the smaller, specialty fisheries saw pricing so high local buyers were priced clean out of certain markets, including Dungeness Crab, Geoduck, Spot Prawns, Seas Cucumbers and Urchins. 
 
Fish Broker in Happier Times

The Bubble Bursts.
Despite brewing stormclouds, 2014 seemed likely to offer the same happy circumstance.  The  Chinese economy was slowing down.  New leadership in Bejing slapped a series of taxes and restriction on imported proteins to reflect the anger of poorer Chinese about wealthier folk eating foreign foods.  However, through spring and into summer, prices maintained the momentum of years past and crept higher for the benchmark fisheries, including crab, salmon and halibut.  Fresh markets for fish, which are mainly domestic, stayed stable.  Then came a series of much larger than expected salmon catches in Canada and Alaska and fish companies began offering unexpectedly large volumes of frozen fish onto the spot markets and found no buyers at advertised prices.  Processors kept buying and buying.  Sellers lowered prices, still no buyers.  Meanwhile the Dollar was rising against other currencies, meaning our fish was pricing itself out of export market after export market.  Fish does not improve with age and and storage is expensive--at one point every cold storage on the coast was plugged to the point of refusing product.  Some processors were reduced to renting freezer shipping containers and stacking fish up in parking lots.

After Le Bust, Le Deluge
Processors and brokers slowly came to the cold hard truth.  China was not going to pick up anyone's slack.  Prices began to plunge.  Sockeye salmon was the most spectacular example, with pricing falling from roughly $5# for large volume-high quality frozen fish to a reported low of #1 sockeye delivered into Tokyo for $2.15#  Larger companies lost huge amounts of money--Icicle Seafoods took such a beating it's owners threw in the towel and put the business up for sale.  Frozen Coho prices have fallen below farmed tillapia levels and remain there.  Tens of millions of pounds of 2014 product still languish in West Coast cold storage.

In 2015 the pricing knives came out.  As with most market crashes the pendulum has swung far in the other direction.  Fishermen in Bristol Bay saw boat prices of $.50#, down from $1.40# the year before.   2015 Chinese New Year still brought stratospheric crab prices, but the bloom was clearly off the rose.  Last April during the tribal Spot Prawn fishery the live Prawn price fell as low as $4.50# from 2014's $11+#.  Even worse, buyers only wanted limited volumes of prawns--we know fishermen who lost thousands of pounds of live prawns waiting for Chinese buyers who never came.  For Dungeness Crab, throughout the summer and into fall Chinese exporters have been MIA and brokers have turned their efforts to moving crab into the California and Eastern American market.

Hard times in the Bone Yard. 
As goes seafood, so goes other commodities.  China has turned off the lights, in the same way the Japanese did in the mid 1990s.  We can still remember the log export yard in Anacortes idle and stuffed with premium logs when the Japanese log market collapsed in 1995.   Years later the Port chipped the logs to clear the space.
Just for fun, below is a graph showing scrap metal prices.
https://www.arscars.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/ars_avg_price_of_crushed_auto_bodies_4thquarter2015.png
Should have put the money in Sockeye.

China, Seafood, and You.  
We like moderate, stable pricing and abundant supplies.  We also like robust economic times.  For the moment we seem to have the dream scenario, China has largely withdrawn from the buying end of the business, while our regional economy is ticking away.  Therefore, we, and you, enjoy reasonable pricing, abundant supplies and strong local demand.  Medium term, our West Coast prosperity has become so entangled with China that a weak China is not good for anyone, even if it means that they leave our Spot Prawns alone.  Hopefully troubles in China do not disrupt the Seattle Restaurant Rally.  Long term, anyone who bets against 1.4 billion Chinese bootstrapping themselves one way or another is a fool.  And, if they appreciate our fish more than we do, then they should probably have it.  One of the bitter ironies of American seafood trade is that we generally export our good product and import nasty stuff--farmed tiger prawns and reprocessed fish.
So the best case scenario is that we use this interruption in the Chinese market to build customer appreciation of our local products.  When, inevitably, resurgent Chinese demand begins to nudge prices up, hopefully we, and you, can stay in the game with higher prices justified by appreciation of our incomparable seafood.
So enjoy the reasonable prices, don't get too used to them, and above all, stay loose.

JFF Salutes the Monkey
So crab pricing remains stable and frozen fish is still a bargain.  What does the Chinese New Year mean to us?  Well, Sara and I are both Snakes, in Chinese Astrology.  The year of the Monkey can be a good and prosperous year for Snakes, provided we can Out Smart the Monkey.  So there you have it.  Good times ahead, just be alert and try and stay a step or two ahead of scheming primates.

http://creativecreativity.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8345158fb69e2015432a54f8b970c-pi

A Message From the JFF Office.
In order to maintain and improve our level of service as we grow, we are moving to a new system of customer-assigned Representatives.
Seattle Customers; you will be working more closely with Paisley.  Northend Customers, you will continue to work with Ivan, but with more individual attention from him.  The rest of us will spend our time watching nature videos on the new flat screen and shooting pool.  Got it?

http://cdn.home-designing.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/google-office-design-1-700x466.jpeg
New JFF office layout

Sincerely, Your JFF Crew!
Call Paisley (425) 577-2329.  Call Nick, Sara, Ivan or Renee, (360) 468-0533